Easy to make protein waffles

This simple receipe of protein waffles was made while experimenting in the kitchen. You should be able to make ~8 waffles.
















Ingredients:

• 2 Eggs
• 3 table spoons Splenda
• 80 g/2.4 dl neutral taste protein powder (I use a blend of whey, casein and egg)
• 5 dl water
• 5 table spoons spelt flour
• 1 tea spoon baking powder
• 2 table spoons healthy oil

Instructions:
Mix eggs and splenda. Make a shake of protein powder and all the water. You should not use flavored protein as it contains aspartame which should not be heated. Mix the shake with the egg mix. Add flour, baking powder and oil. Keep it in the fridge until beeing used after mixing the ingredients well. Cook it in the waffle iron. Stirred berries (strawberries, raspberries etc) and splenda makes a perfect combo.

Impressions afterwards:
The waffles taste ok, but can be improved. They are lacking a bit of fullness due to low fat content. I think the fullness fill improve if using skimmed milk instead of water and/or using wheat instead of spelt.

Simple ice lanterns in 5 steps

These ice lanterns were inspired by ideas found on instructables.com. The instructions found were how to make ice balls and how to make battery powered LED ice lanterns. I thought it would be an idea to make a low tech version of the LED lantern.

Here are the instructions:
1. Fill ordinary balloons with water from the sink. Fill to a safe size.
2. Put the balloons in the freezer for at least four hours until fully frozen. Make sure as few as possible objects deform the balloons while freezing.
3. Use a drill with a hole saw to mark the outline of where you want to put a tea light candle.
4. Make the hole deeper by using a knife and carving the ice from the hole. You have to make sure the candle wick will be below the top of the hole to make the lantern shimmer and to shelter the fire.
5. Put a tea light candle within the hole and light it.

That's it - enjoy the beautiful light in these dark days.

How to set up MouseClick and MouseDoubleClick in 6 steps (C# / Visual Studio 2005)

Do you want to add clicking and double clicking to the same button in C#? This is the only way I have found that works:

1. Start by adding an integer variable to set the status for the mouse and initialize to zero (clickStatus)
2. Drag a timer to the form to monitor how much time have elapsed between mouse clicks (timer1). Set “Enabled” property to “false”.
3. Set the timer interval to the system doubleclick time (timer1.Interval=SystemInformation.DoubleClickTime)
4. Add a Click event to the form or whatever you want to check the clickstatus of.
5. Add the Click event to the Tick event of timer1
6. Add additional code as shown below:
   
   namespace WindowsApplication3
   {
   public partial class Form1 : Form
   {
   private int clickStatus=0; //0=not clicked, 1=single clicked, 2=double clicked
   
   public Form1()
   {
   InitializeComponent();
   timer1.Interval = SystemInformation.DoubleClickTime;
   }
   private void Form1_MouseDoubleClick(object sender, MouseEventArgs e)
   {
   clickStatus = 2;
   }
   private void Form1_MouseClick(object sender, MouseEventArgs e)
   {
   clickStatus = 1;
   timer1.Enabled = true;
   }
   private void Form1_Click(object sender, EventArgs e)
   {
   timer1.Enabled = false;
   if (clickStatus==2)
   {
   //MessageBox.Show("Double clicked");
   clickStatus = 0;
   }
   else if (clickStatus==1)
   {
   //MessageBox.Show("Single clicked");
   clickStatus = 0;
   }
   }
   }
   }
   
   The click events are called in the following order: Click – MouseClick – MouseDoubleClick, but MouseDoubleClick will not be raised if a MouseClick is raised. The trick is to use the timer. When a single click is made then the following events will be raised: Click – MouseClick – Click. When a double click Is made the following events will be raised: Click – MouseClick – MouseDoubleClick – Click. Make sure to add the same events to other components that you want to have similar behaviour (labels, boxes etc).
   

Electrolytic rust removal

Recently I have been experiencing problems with rust on my cars. I looked around on the internet and found an easy, but very effective method for rust removal. The method utilizes electrolysis and compared to other methods it's superb as it doesn't remove any base material. The only limitations for the method is that the part could be disassembled and that you have a tub with sufficient volume where you could submerge it.

You need a couple of ingredients for the method:
1. Caustic soda or crystal soda - 10g per liter, for the electrolytic bath
2. An iron or steel with low alloy content, as electrode
3. A plastic or plastic covered tub
4. Water
5. A variable current source. You could use a battery or an old car charger, but it's necessary to alter the current by adding extra resistors like a car bulb
6. Wires
7. A part that is rusted (duh)

I got asked by a colleague if I could try the method on a part for a cam shaft that he accidently had left on the floor of his leaking car. This is how the part looked before the rust removal:






























The process creates hydrogen. As hydrogen is explosive with oxygen I found it safest to work outdoors.

I used caustic soda as it was impossible to obtain crystal soda. I read that others were using crystal soda, but that it should be safe to use caustic soda for the bath. Water was first filled, caustic soda was later weighed and added 10g per liter.

I used an old model train current source, but needed to rectify the voltage as it was AC, not DC as needed. The positive wire was connected to the sacrificial iron electrode and the negative wire was connected to the part that I wanted to remove rust from. The process starts faster if the wire has contact with base metal. The wire(s) to the sacrificial electrode(s) should not be submerged as it would destroy it/them. If the object is large you should surround it with several electrodes. This is my setup:


































The current was adjusted to the lowest possible value as a medium sized object (dependent on the surface) needs approximately 200mA. I had ~170mA for what I consider a small object. It's not crucial that the current is low, but a fast process is supposed to make a non optimal result. You notice the start of the transformation by small hydrogen bubbles appearing on the surface of the part. I left the part for approximately one day in the tub, but you could keep it there forever if you wanted. After removal I rinse the part in water with a tooth brush, scrape off excess rust with a knife, remove water by rubbing it with paint thinner and cover it in oil. This is the result of the process (some rust are still seen on the picture, but this was easily removed with a small knife). I would highly recommend the method to others.